The Rack vrs The Wedding Dress
Some have been waiting a very long time for this post. I am afraid to say some will be offended. Some have dreamed of the perfect wedding dress for so long that they dread what I am about to say. Because the dress of a young girl's dreams probubly doesn't suit her adult figure. You are welcome to skip this post and move on to something less controversial. In fact if you are one of those brides, I encourage it. For the others . . .
Friends aren't going to tell a bride that her dress doesn't fit properly. Parents aren't going to explain why a large bust is ill suited to a (shudder) straight across strapless. Bridesmaids certainly aren't going to explain why the bride needs a proper corset, with steel boning. Do you know who is going to tell a bride that her dress was a horrible waste of money? Her wedding photos in 10 years time. Oh, and me.
Now we aren't talking bad taste here. That can't be cured.
What I want to talk about, Fashionable Reader, is choosing the correct cut for a top heavy figure. And also, exploring retro options under the context of a Rack.
I have been to a lot of weddings. During the summer of 2005-2006 I had 32. Yes, 32. Do you want to know how many of those brides were dressed in a wedding gown that suited figure, occasion, coloring, and form? Maybe 10%. (Of course, darling, you were the exception.)
Shall we begin?
Textured satin in the first one is more forgiving of chub rolls than pure satin. Also the first one has a dramatic train without added volume. This dress would work well for an evening inside wedding. On all the above dresses a relatively high neckline and wide straps allows for a good bra, while the backs are low enough to be sexy without revealing anything they shouldn't. Extra fabric at the top allows for larger busts but slender hips. Off white is better on most complexions. A belt, or a pause in details, empathizes the waist. The middle dress could work day or evening, depending on jewelry, and its hem allows for pretty shoes to be shown off. All three are good dresses for someone relatively tall with a larger bust and a slight hourglass figure, slender hips, and toned arms. All work to give a waist to someone who doesn't have one. Athletes like swimmers could rock this style gown with a bit of a padded bra.
Embarrassed about your arms? The 1930s also gave us wedding dresses that covered up from neck to feet. This makes for a demure look, but lacks the excess fabric that overwhelms modern bridal versions. This kind of dress is quite formal, and pretty unforgiving if you have much fat on your hourglass figure. However, if you are tall and shapely and have skin or religious cover-up concerns, this is a beautiful vintage option. Do be careful with a cut like the retro remake shown at the bottom. Make certain it fits the chest area properly and be sure to try it on with the bra you intend to wear for the wedding.
Want kind of bra should that be under white satin?
Say it with me ladies!
A smooth t-shit bra in . . . nude skin tone! (I know, I know, it's ugly but you can always change into something nicer for the honeymoon.)
Right so what about a 1930s option that isn't satin? Go for something a little bit more forgiving with pleats and drapes. Just make certain the folds are placed correctly and are relatively narrow. Curvy girls still should opt for something that emphasizes the waist, nothing too Regency. The cross front is a good option but if one is overly hour glass, its starts to gap. I've found if my hip to waist differences is over 8 inches I can't wear a wrap. But always try it on to know for certain and remember one can add a nice broach to keep the front closed (or make it more demure as in the case of the last dress) or a wide belt if the dress doesn't come with one.
Here's an example of something similarly drapey that would NOT work.
Why not? Waistline it too high emphasizing size of Rack. All the pleating and details are on the chest making it look much bigger. Divided overlay down the front will divide further over a stomach drawing attention. Spaghetti straps do not allow for a proper bra.
What I love about 1940s gowns is they tend to be pretty covered up, but also quite form fitting. Added details started to come in with shear fabrics, pleats, and lace. These gowns are great for the hour glass figure and best for inside formal weddings. It pays to make certain, especially if one is opting for a sweetheart like the Lana turner dress or the square neckline like the middle dress, that one invests in a good (steel boned) long-line (over the hips) corset underneath. The Lana dress and the last dress also have that little gather in the front hide tummy sins. A lace overlay can work to confuse the eye were fat rolls are concerned.
Of course, in the actual 1940s most got married in something a little more like this . . .
The 1950s gave us curvy girls a wide range of new options. It's hard to deal will all of them but I shall do my best.
Tea length! I love this look. It's perfect for an afternoon wedding in a well manicured garden setting. If you have good legs this dress will show them off. It comes off as demure, because of the retro look, but still shows a lot of skin. Think picnics in the park. Again the wide straps allow for a bra, nipped in waist is perfect if you have a waist, and the full skirt isn't overwhelming if it's on the shorter side. Remember if the skirt length is longer than the knees you should pair it with heals. If you want to wear flats, have the hem taken up to the knee or above.
If you're self conscious about your arms there are some lovely versions that come with a shear or lace overlay that will work in any sleeve length.
And if you don't like tea length, a retro rack can also rock any one of these dresses full length for a more formal event.
The key is to make certain the top portion is nice and fitted correctly to the chest, the skirt is an A-line rather than an overly poofy meringue. I also recommend that the lace be limited to certain areas rather than the whole dress. This kind of silhouette works to balance out the more top heavy lady.
Here's what does NOT work . . .
No, don't stick that lower lip out at me. I know we all want to be Audry. Do you know how tiny that girl was? Straight across and backless is not for the curves. You know what they say about horizontal stripes? Yeah, horizontal, right over the Rack, in white? Girl, no. I've yet to attend a wedding where a curvy girl in this kind of dress wasn't 1. slouching self consciously, 2. awkwardly tugging the neckline up the whole time, 3. spilling out over the top, 4. experiencing the "fold" under the boobs where the fabric or the cheep plastic boning was failing to support her, or 5. all four.
If you are absolutely set on this style, get one made that is fully boned. Even then most struggle not to show too much cleavage and there is back fat and under arm fat to consider. Really, only skinny girls can carry this look off.
Another 1950s look I love is the pencil dress.
It's a popular misconception that one needs to hide curves with lots of material, for some a nice slim pencil cut is actually more flattering. This is a great option for a formal afternoon wedding or a courthouse affair.
Sometimes it is easier to see the flaws in gowns when they are on someone else of a similar figure. Often it helps to shop with soemone your shape who can try on the dress for you. This removes the romantic overtones of the "white dress" moment and may offer some perspective.
If you have the corset and the figure here are some options that are retro and flattering.
Good coverage sweetheart or v neckline, fitted to below the hips, fuller skirt. Make certain the neckline isn't too low. Take a gander at some of Christina Hendrick's red carpet mistakes for clues.
There is one other option to consider if your hunt is frustrating and fruitless. If you already have a gown you love that fits you beautifully you can take it in to a qualified seamstress you trust and have her make that for you in the wedding fabric of your choice (although always pick something of a similar stretch to the original dress). If you can get away with not revealing it's a wedding dress, you might even get a decent price on it. Claim it's for a stage show or something. You can do something similar with a vintage pattern. In either case do make certain you leave lots of time for proper tailoring and fittings.
Also these days white is all over the department stores. If you're in for a destination wedding or something beachy and casual you might pick up something there at a reasonable price, and it's less likely to be strapless and more likely to come in a range of sizes.
For the honeymoon?
Some helpful links:
Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.
Friends aren't going to tell a bride that her dress doesn't fit properly. Parents aren't going to explain why a large bust is ill suited to a (shudder) straight across strapless. Bridesmaids certainly aren't going to explain why the bride needs a proper corset, with steel boning. Do you know who is going to tell a bride that her dress was a horrible waste of money? Her wedding photos in 10 years time. Oh, and me.
Now we aren't talking bad taste here. That can't be cured.
What I want to talk about, Fashionable Reader, is choosing the correct cut for a top heavy figure. And also, exploring retro options under the context of a Rack.
I have been to a lot of weddings. During the summer of 2005-2006 I had 32. Yes, 32. Do you want to know how many of those brides were dressed in a wedding gown that suited figure, occasion, coloring, and form? Maybe 10%. (Of course, darling, you were the exception.)
Shall we begin?
1930s
Here are some good options if you are going for a 1930s look and you have substantial assets.
1930s Antique Dress; 1930s dress via Timeless Vixen Vintage; 1938 Madeleine Vionnet, The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Textured satin in the first one is more forgiving of chub rolls than pure satin. Also the first one has a dramatic train without added volume. This dress would work well for an evening inside wedding. On all the above dresses a relatively high neckline and wide straps allows for a good bra, while the backs are low enough to be sexy without revealing anything they shouldn't. Extra fabric at the top allows for larger busts but slender hips. Off white is better on most complexions. A belt, or a pause in details, empathizes the waist. The middle dress could work day or evening, depending on jewelry, and its hem allows for pretty shoes to be shown off. All three are good dresses for someone relatively tall with a larger bust and a slight hourglass figure, slender hips, and toned arms. All work to give a waist to someone who doesn't have one. Athletes like swimmers could rock this style gown with a bit of a padded bra.
1931 Sleeve Vintage; 1932 Sleeve Vintage; 1933 Sleeve Retro
Embarrassed about your arms? The 1930s also gave us wedding dresses that covered up from neck to feet. This makes for a demure look, but lacks the excess fabric that overwhelms modern bridal versions. This kind of dress is quite formal, and pretty unforgiving if you have much fat on your hourglass figure. However, if you are tall and shapely and have skin or religious cover-up concerns, this is a beautiful vintage option. Do be careful with a cut like the retro remake shown at the bottom. Make certain it fits the chest area properly and be sure to try it on with the bra you intend to wear for the wedding.
Want kind of bra should that be under white satin?
Say it with me ladies!
A smooth t-shit bra in . . . nude skin tone! (I know, I know, it's ugly but you can always change into something nicer for the honeymoon.)
1934 Drape Vintage; 1935 Drape Retro
Right so what about a 1930s option that isn't satin? Go for something a little bit more forgiving with pleats and drapes. Just make certain the folds are placed correctly and are relatively narrow. Curvy girls still should opt for something that emphasizes the waist, nothing too Regency. The cross front is a good option but if one is overly hour glass, its starts to gap. I've found if my hip to waist differences is over 8 inches I can't wear a wrap. But always try it on to know for certain and remember one can add a nice broach to keep the front closed (or make it more demure as in the case of the last dress) or a wide belt if the dress doesn't come with one.
Here's an example of something similarly drapey that would NOT work.
Why not? Waistline it too high emphasizing size of Rack. All the pleating and details are on the chest making it look much bigger. Divided overlay down the front will divide further over a stomach drawing attention. Spaghetti straps do not allow for a proper bra.
1930s Hair Accessory
1940s
1940 Vintage Sketch; 1948 Lana Turner; 1941 Retro Glamour; Modern
What I love about 1940s gowns is they tend to be pretty covered up, but also quite form fitting. Added details started to come in with shear fabrics, pleats, and lace. These gowns are great for the hour glass figure and best for inside formal weddings. It pays to make certain, especially if one is opting for a sweetheart like the Lana turner dress or the square neckline like the middle dress, that one invests in a good (steel boned) long-line (over the hips) corset underneath. The Lana dress and the last dress also have that little gather in the front hide tummy sins. A lace overlay can work to confuse the eye were fat rolls are concerned.
Of course, in the actual 1940s most got married in something a little more like this . . .
1942 Vintage Reality War Time
1940's style hair accessory
1950s
The 1950s gave us curvy girls a wide range of new options. It's hard to deal will all of them but I shall do my best.
1950 Vintage; 1950 Retro
Tea length! I love this look. It's perfect for an afternoon wedding in a well manicured garden setting. If you have good legs this dress will show them off. It comes off as demure, because of the retro look, but still shows a lot of skin. Think picnics in the park. Again the wide straps allow for a bra, nipped in waist is perfect if you have a waist, and the full skirt isn't overwhelming if it's on the shorter side. Remember if the skirt length is longer than the knees you should pair it with heals. If you want to wear flats, have the hem taken up to the knee or above.
If you're self conscious about your arms there are some lovely versions that come with a shear or lace overlay that will work in any sleeve length.
1953 Vintage; 1960 Vintage; 1955 Retro; 1954 Vintage
And if you don't like tea length, a retro rack can also rock any one of these dresses full length for a more formal event.
1951 Wedding Dress Norman Hartnell, The Victoria & Albert Museum; 1954 sketch
modern take
1955; Charmed
Modern winter wonderland
The key is to make certain the top portion is nice and fitted correctly to the chest, the skirt is an A-line rather than an overly poofy meringue. I also recommend that the lace be limited to certain areas rather than the whole dress. This kind of silhouette works to balance out the more top heavy lady.
Here's what does NOT work . . .
No, don't stick that lower lip out at me. I know we all want to be Audry. Do you know how tiny that girl was? Straight across and backless is not for the curves. You know what they say about horizontal stripes? Yeah, horizontal, right over the Rack, in white? Girl, no. I've yet to attend a wedding where a curvy girl in this kind of dress wasn't 1. slouching self consciously, 2. awkwardly tugging the neckline up the whole time, 3. spilling out over the top, 4. experiencing the "fold" under the boobs where the fabric or the cheep plastic boning was failing to support her, or 5. all four.
If you are absolutely set on this style, get one made that is fully boned. Even then most struggle not to show too much cleavage and there is back fat and under arm fat to consider. Really, only skinny girls can carry this look off.
Another 1950s look I love is the pencil dress.
It's a popular misconception that one needs to hide curves with lots of material, for some a nice slim pencil cut is actually more flattering. This is a great option for a formal afternoon wedding or a courthouse affair.
Other Thoughts
Now, access to a good corset can open up the Rack's options. But that corset really has to fit properly, please don't let it show under the dress. It's a foundation garment, like a bra, and should be invisible.
This lovely lady's wedding dress journey is fun to look at.
Sometimes it is easier to see the flaws in gowns when they are on someone else of a similar figure. Often it helps to shop with soemone your shape who can try on the dress for you. This removes the romantic overtones of the "white dress" moment and may offer some perspective.
If you have the corset and the figure here are some options that are retro and flattering.
Good coverage sweetheart or v neckline, fitted to below the hips, fuller skirt. Make certain the neckline isn't too low. Take a gander at some of Christina Hendrick's red carpet mistakes for clues.
There is one other option to consider if your hunt is frustrating and fruitless. If you already have a gown you love that fits you beautifully you can take it in to a qualified seamstress you trust and have her make that for you in the wedding fabric of your choice (although always pick something of a similar stretch to the original dress). If you can get away with not revealing it's a wedding dress, you might even get a decent price on it. Claim it's for a stage show or something. You can do something similar with a vintage pattern. In either case do make certain you leave lots of time for proper tailoring and fittings.
Also these days white is all over the department stores. If you're in for a destination wedding or something beachy and casual you might pick up something there at a reasonable price, and it's less likely to be strapless and more likely to come in a range of sizes.
For the honeymoon?
Nightgown Juel Park, 1950s Antique Dress
Some helpful links:
- Index of images from weddings of the past.
- Source for vintage inspired wedding dresses.
- Proper Wedding Attire from the Modern Manners Guy.
- Surviving Wedding Season ~ etiquette guide for guests.
1880 The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.
